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Jaeger-LeCoultre Product Design Director Lionel Favre about the New Polaris CollectionsharetweetshareJaeger-LeCoultre introduced an all-new collection, called Polaris, at SIHH 2018, with every on the new models bearing the direct aesthetic influence with the now-classic Memovox Polaris, a mechanical alarm-equipped dive watch launched in 1968. In the salon in Geneva, I had created the ability to take a look at the way a 1960s classic gets a 21st-century collection with all the man who spearheaded today's Polaris's design and development, Jaeger-LeCoultre Product Design Director Lionel Favre.Jaeger-LeCoultre Product Design Director Lionel FavreMB:    What made you need to turn into a designer, specifically an artist of replica watches? LF:      I began in jewelry design, and assisted several brands including Chopard, where I became Head of Design. Personally I chosen over make my own, personal designs going for a pen to paper is usually a pleasure personally. Anymore fearless . I've some experience [with watch design] I found it worth it to read to formulate an entire collection.MB:    That suits you using pens and pencils to owning a pc?LF:      Yes, definitely. It is important inside our design department that we start our designs manually since this is the simplest way to go deep to the subject. If you have sketched a sluggish start a concept, you can begin on the computer. However you must commence with the blank paper and go ahead and take pen.MB:    What sets Jaeger LeCoultre apart being a brand with regards to how you approach the design, in comparison to other brands that you have worked with?LF:      Certainly the style territory of Jaeger LeCoultre is quite for this classic, elegant, and well-proportioned models and to high complications. Innovation is part of business, but a great deal of that aspect is less expressive, it's more underneath, inside the movement. Every time a designer speaks together with the engineers, they normally talk about process, precision, etc, and now we do discuss that, but we speak much more about beauty, external and internal. When Jaeger-LeCoultre designs a movement, it is important that it's a beautiful movement, not merely reliable; we should create something with good proportions, with beautiful screws, decorations. In my opinion, that is the best part of the spirit of Jaeger LeCoultre that differentiates it off their brands.Favre's sketches for your Polaris ChronographMB:    So the thought of beauty is definitely worked in the mechanical side of computer as well as to the case and dial?LF:      Yes. It is not just the dial, the leather strap, plus the case. The mindset is the fact we attempt to make each step in the watchmaking classically beautiful.MB:    Is there a main contrast between designing replica watches and designing jewelry?LF:      In certain respects, I think they're similar because finally what you look for to have can be something with higher light reflections and often using the same materials, like gold. Particularly designing a watch for women, in the end what she'd like is actually a jewel, or at least something between jewelry and watchmaking. If sherrrd like you just read any time she can check out her iPhone. So, this really is close.MB:    Individuals that design for watch companies have come from automotive design, furniture design, as well as other specialties. Think different design backgrounds issue in how one approaches designing replica watches?LF:      I think a lot of designers from your automotive category have a go at designing replica watches, and some are very good, but it is really, really different because [with replica watches] we're also in a really traditional world with numerous existing codes. If you would like be very innovative and hang some automotive codes for your watch it's great you might need the sort of watch you're creating. In order to build a watch which fits into your tradition of watchmaking, it's a bit much harder to add in them.MB:    How can you approach updating a vintage watch just like the Polaris and expanding it right into a whole line that also includes chronographs, world-timers additional features which are not the main original, yet still keep true to an original vision on the watch? LF:      The leading challenge is in identifying the spirit of Polaris, through its codes and its particular history. When you find yourself confident you may have every one of these assets, then you definitely make an effort to transport them to a new vision as well as a new collection. Without a doubt watches , the defining feature of the Polaris Memovox model from 1968 was its mechanical alarm function. Whenever you convert it into a chronograph, you lose that historic link, but you continue to have the aesthetic elements: the 3 concentric circles, the perception of the flange rolex ladies , the hour indexes, along with the rotating inner ring. From the Automatic model, for example, you can observe the 3 concentric circles together with the three different finishes the guts together with the sunray brush, the very center together with the graining, along with the flange while using opaline. Obviously, another highlight is strong design of the flange along with the two crowns. The essence on the watch is basically the graphic dial, with the clear, oversized indexes, upon which it is easy to see some time. Which was the main asset that individuals wished to preserve inside the new collection.Favre's sketches for the Polaris AutomaticMB:    Therefore, if I understand what you're saying, it's really down to pinpointing several key features without obsessing over every little feature, and expanding from there?LF:      Exactly. You might want the impression that model belongs to the household, but you do not need each to become photocopy on the original model. When you consider the original model, you will notice it's very challenging to re-create precisely the same feeling. The revolutionary models all look virtually identical however the case finishing takes a different approach, the kinds of materials used there are very different along with the overall look is hopefully more modern. The numerals are larger, the lamp crystal is updated; it does not take same, but different.MB: The Chronograph model is a useful one of sporty meets luxury.LF:       For the Polaris Chronograph in black, there exists a new metal bracelet which has a combined different finishes, polished parts and satin parts. It is especially difficult to achieve these different finishes since you must polish everything manually ,; it wouldn't be performed very quickly. Every one of these small details down to which surfaces are brushed and that are polished are common determined within the sketches and they are vital when it comes to process.Favre's sketches for your Polaris Memovox limited editionMB:    And that i would imagine that the Chronograph WT [World Timer] presented the largest challenge, as far as maintaining your look inside the family?LF:      Yes, I agree. That watch is 44 mm in titanium, and that we added a useful function. In reality, we decided that the Polaris line can have only useful functions. A chronograph is useful, as well as a world time function is additionally useful. We added the chronograph considering that the world-time function alone might possibly not have looked sporty enough and without one the 44-mm case diameter could possibly have looked somewhat empty. We needed so that it is sporty because the original inspiration became a sports watch. In addition we use calfskin straps instead of crocodile straps, which to me are less "business"-oriented, and also the buckle is completely new, with satin-brushed and polished parts.MB: Identify regarding the two vintage-inspired tribute editions.LF:      We created a computerized with no Memovox alarm function, as it's a expensive complication, and now we wanted a watch that kept the spirit of the original but could be sold at an entry-level price. Including the others, we gave it a much more modern look, with various finishing, using the faux-patina color within the numbers as opposed to white, both crowns, hublot f1 the movable flange, as well as the especially beautiful modern movement. Also, you will find, since it's different movement because the original, the modern watch does not have a day. It's a greater portion of a purist design. As well as for people who want the authentic Memovox function, our company offers that version, which is also a finite edition, at a higher price point.All the info, "down that surfaces are brushed and which can be polished," is protected from the sketches Favre prepares for each watch.sharetweetshare